Gold hessonite garnet & pearl cross pendant, 16th century

A gold cruciform pendant set with hessonite garnets and pearls.

English or German, first half of the 16th century.

Measures 4.5 x 3.1cm (excluding pearl drop, 5.3cm total height).

The stones in this pendant are set with open backs, enabling direct contact with the wearer's skin. In Medieval and Renaissance traditions, it was believed that this direct contact enhanced the magical properties of the stones, providing benefits to the wearer. Renaissance pendants were frequently crafted as protective amulets against various dangers.

Parting friends or lovers would exchange talismans set with garnets, believing it would ensure their safety during separation and guarantee a reunion in the future. The pearls affixed to the corners of the cross symbolised purity and chastity, attributes associated with Christ and the Virgin Mary.

Garnets, reputed to foster true love and friendship, combined with the purity and chastity attributed to pearls, make this pendant an ideal gift between lovers, denoting their loyalty to each other and to their faith.

The present pendant resembles some of the jewellery designs by Hans Holbein the Younger (c.1497 - 1543) in the collection of the British museum. Although there are no known jewels attributed to Hans Holbein, his use of pearls and table cut garnets make for striking comparisons. See The British Museum, London, Museum numbers: SL,5308.101 and SL,5308.50.

For a similar pearl and gem set cruciform pendant see the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, Accession number: M.74-1953.

Also the British Museum, London, Registration number: AF.2907.

Another pendant with open back settings which utilises the amuletic properties of the gems can be found in the collection of the Victoria and Albert Museum, London, Accession number: M.242-1975.

A pendant with a similarly pierced pomander top, also decorated with acanthus leaves can be found in the collection of the British Museum, London, Registration number: AF.2660.

A painting of the Virgin and Child with a Pomegranate by Hans Holbein the Elder (1460-1524), shows the Virgin wearing a similar cross, it is in the collection of the Kunsthistorisches Museum, Vienna: INV. NO. Gemäldegalerie, 6503.

A portrait of Johann von Rückingen (c.1467) by Wolfgang Beurer shows the sitter holding a similar pendant in the Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid: Inv. no. 271.a (1934.15.a).


Links:

https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/image/108810001

https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/image/108842001

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O105958/pendant-cross-unknown/

https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/H_AF-2907

https://collections.vam.ac.uk/item/O33865/pendant-unknown/?carousel-image=2006AB9873

https://www.britishmuseum.org/collection/object/H_AF-2660

https://www.khm.at/en/objectdb/detail/962/

https://www.museothyssen.org/en/collection/artists/beurer-wolfgang/portrait-johann-von-ruckingen-recto